Lost in Translation: The Llama on Liberty's Head in Lima's Plaza San Martín

Plaza San Martín is one of the most elegant squares in Lima: white colonial-style buildings, gardens, and in the middle a huge monument to General José de San Martín, the Argentine liberator who declared Peru's independence in 1821. Most visitors take a photo of the general on his horse and move on.

But if you walk around to the front of the monument and look closely at the female figure holding up the dedication, you will notice something that makes almost everyone laugh: she has a llama sitting on her head.

The monument and the square

Plaza San Martín was inaugurated on July 27, 1921, to celebrate the first centenary of Peru's independence. The square was designed by the Spanish architect Manuel Piqueras Cotolí, and the monument is the work of the famous Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure, whose design won an international competition.

At the top, San Martín rides across the Andes. Below him, a white female figure — usually called the Madre Patria, an allegory of the homeland or of Liberty — raises a laurel wreath around the dedication: "La Nación al General D. José de San Martín" (The Nation to General José de San Martín).

And on her head, instead of a crown or a flame, there is a small bronze llama.

The story: one word, two meanings

Here is where the fun begins. In Spanish, the word llama has two completely different meanings:

• Llama = the Andean animal, cousin of the alpaca and the vicuña.
• Llama = a flame, as in fire.

According to the story every guide in Lima loves to tell, the design called for the figure to wear a "llama votiva" or "llama de fuego" on her head — a sacred flame, a classic symbol of liberty and of the eternal spirit of the nation. The sculpture was made in Spain, far from the Andes, and somewhere along the way someone read "llama" as the animal. The result: instead of a flame, a llama.

A mistake... or not?

To be fair, the "lost in translation" version is a legend. There is no official document that proves a misunderstanding ever happened. Some historians believe the llama was placed there on purpose, as a tribute to Peru's Andean identity — just like the vicuña that appears on Peru's national coat of arms. Others think the story was simply invented later by the famous sense of humor of the people of Lima.

Whatever the truth, the story has become part of the monument itself. Almost every local guide tells it, and once you know it, you will never look at the Madre Patria the same way again.

Another curious detail from opening day

The 1921 inauguration had its own unexpected moment: when the time came to unveil the monument, the cloth that covered it got stuck. According to the chronicles, a young man named Artidoro Cossio climbed the monument in front of the crowd to free it.

How to see the llama

• Where: Plaza San Martín, in the historic center of Lima, a short walk from the Plaza Mayor along the pedestrian Jirón de la Unión.
• What to look for: stand in front of the monument, facing the dedication "La Nación al General D. José de San Martín". The llama is on top of the head of the white female figure just below it.
• Tip: the llama is small and dark, so it is easy to miss from far away. Bring a zoom lens or use your phone's zoom for the best photo.
• Around the square: look at the Gran Hotel Bolívar, one of Lima's classic hotels, and the Teatro Colón, built before the square itself.
• Safety: the historic center is busy, especially on weekends and during demonstrations. Visit during the day and keep an eye on your belongings.

Sources and further reading: Wikipedia: Plaza San Martín, Lima.

Small stories, big trips

This is the kind of detail we love to share with our guests — the small stories that make a city unforgettable. On the Bolivian side, we tell a similar "look closer" story about the money in your pocket: read Two Coins, Two Bolivias and Two Sets of Banknotes, One Country.

Starting your trip in Lima? Our Peru Highlights — 7 Days and Peru Complete — 10 Days begin in the capital and continue to Cusco, Machu Picchu and beyond. See all our Peru tours or contact us to plan your trip.